I was taking part in the cocktail world championship in Havana. There are many such competitions so I wouldn’t attach to much importance to it. Cuba won, to no one’s surprise. I think I came in third. The contest was held in a theatre that hadn’t changed an iota since 1957 when the Americans ran for their boats with Che and Fidel on their heels. Even the entertainment hadn’t altered style, long lines of dancing girls with tall ostrich feathers in their hair and spangly corsets around their midriff high kicking to big band tunes. We shared backstage with them during the competition and they were in various stages of undress, which made me feel very sophisticated in a sleazy-impresario kind of way.
The day afterwards our hosts had arranged an outing to a sugar factory. To get there we had to take a train. It was a steam train, well over a hundred years old and it pulled two ancient mahogany carriages of tired bartenders behind it.
The sugar works were from the 1850’s and were originally owned by the Hershey Company, who also had given their name to the train. The factory was in its original state, huge cast iron flywheels and cogs spinning around with no guards or fences, ready to chew up any budding Chaplin that got too close. Smoke and steam poured out of large boilers where the molasses was boiled and crystallised into light brown sugar. It was the afternoon and everything was far too noisy, sticky and hot for my taste and I was not sorry to get back on the train for the return trip to Havana.
My head was splitting and my body was shaking from the hangover. Fortunately our hosts had built a bar in one of the carriages and they were dispensing Mojitos and Bucanero beer. I grabbed one of each and looked out at the barren countryside from my slatted wooden bench. I could have been in a cowboy film. In the sky vultures circled lazily.
After while the alcohol seeped into my system and I calmed down somewhat. I thought about my girlfriend in Norway. We didn’t seem to be moving anywhere and I wasn’t ready to make a go of it, it all seemed very impermanent.
A Cuban band started to play and they danced into my carriage, blaring trumpets and trombones, beating cowbells and marimbas. Torture of the highest sort. Some of the other competitors followed them, clasping drinks and dancing in a Conga line. I hated their energy and carelessness.
I had a couple more drinks and looked at the vultures. Suddenly I was hit by a rush of clarity, and epiphany on the railroad to Havana: I would go back to Oslo, I would talk to my woman and make her mine. I would commit. I have never had such a strong feeling of purpose, it felt as if I had let religion into my heart, discarded all doubt and found security.
When I got back to Oslo we got back together, but it didn’t last and I broke up some time after. Without rum and sun, Norway is just too cold.