• A Crypt in Brixton

Moments. Every word is true.

  • The Hershey Train in Cuba

    Feb 17th, 2025

    I was taking part in the cocktail world championship in Havana. There are many such competitions so I wouldn’t attach to much importance to it. Cuba won, to no one’s surprise. I think I came in third. The contest was held in a theatre that hadn’t changed an iota since 1957 when the Americans ran for their boats with Che and Fidel on their heels. Even the entertainment hadn’t altered style, long lines of dancing girls with tall ostrich feathers in their hair and spangly corsets around their midriff high kicking to big band tunes. We shared backstage with them during the competition and they were in various stages of undress, which made me feel very sophisticated in a sleazy-impresario kind of way.

    The day afterwards our hosts had arranged an outing to a sugar factory. To get there we had to take a train. It was a steam train, well over a hundred years old and it pulled two ancient mahogany carriages of tired bartenders behind it.

    The sugar works were from the 1850’s and were originally owned by the Hershey Company, who also had given their name to the train. The factory was in its original state, huge cast iron flywheels and cogs spinning around with no guards or fences, ready to chew up any budding Chaplin that got too close. Smoke and steam poured out of large boilers where the molasses was boiled and crystallised into light brown sugar. It was the afternoon and everything was far too noisy, sticky and hot for my taste and I was not sorry to get back on the train for the return trip to Havana.

    My head was splitting and my body was shaking from the hangover. Fortunately our hosts had built a bar in one of the carriages and they were dispensing Mojitos and Bucanero beer. I grabbed one of each and looked out at the barren countryside from my slatted wooden bench. I could have been in a cowboy film. In the sky vultures circled lazily.

    After while the alcohol seeped into my system and I calmed down somewhat. I thought about my girlfriend in Norway. We didn’t seem to be moving anywhere and I wasn’t ready to make a go of it, it all seemed very impermanent.

    A Cuban band started to play and they danced into my carriage, blaring trumpets and trombones, beating cowbells and marimbas. Torture of the highest sort. Some of the other competitors followed them, clasping drinks and dancing in a Conga line. I hated their energy and carelessness.

    I had a couple more drinks and looked at the vultures. Suddenly I was hit by a rush of clarity, and epiphany on the railroad to Havana: I would go back to Oslo, I would talk to my woman and make her mine. I would commit. I have never had such a strong feeling of purpose, it felt as if I had let religion into my heart, discarded all doubt and found security.

    When I got back to Oslo we got back together, but it didn’t last and I broke up some time after. Without rum and sun, Norway is just too cold.

  • The Glitch

    Feb 8th, 2025

    Nesodden, Norway. I was sitting on the bus on the way in to town. This was in 2023. I sat in front on the right, I like sitting there because it is over the wheel well and can put my feet up on the curve of steel that covers it. There is also a small heater on the wall and on a winters day I put a thick scarf over my knees to trap its warmth under my legs.

    I have a habit of daydreaming, constructing situations in my head and this day was no different. My mind strays and suddenly I am somewhere else.

    This day my mind wandered off, but I was still in the same place; the bus. I was in a scene exactly where I sat. The bus stopped and a woman got on. She paid the driver, walked past me and as she got abreast she hesitated a second. Then she walked on. After some seconds she returned, turned to me and asked: “Do you mind if I sit next to you?” I looked around and the bus was empty, why did she need to sit beside me?

    The scene ended and the bus rolled on.

    After five minutes the bus stopped and a woman got on. She paid the driver, walked past me and as she got abreast the hesitated a second. Then she walked on. After some seconds she returned, turned to me and asked: “Do you mind if I sit next to you?” I looked around and the bus was empty, why did she need to sit beside me?

    But I answered, “no, of course.”

    She sat down next to me. She was in her forties, tall, a strapping woman. “I hope you don’t mind?” “You see, I’m a journalist and I recognised you. I’ve always wanted to interview you.”

    She talked for a while and when we got to the ferry we parted ways, after exchanging our details.

    Out on the water I thought back on what had just happened. How had I imagined a situation exactly, five minutes before it occurred in real life? I still don’t know. But the woman was real, she emailed me after some days. I weighed up the idea of telling her what had happened, but decided she would think I was making it up and decided against.

  • Ceausescu’s Blood

    Feb 7th, 2025

    1989 Christmas Day and I was working in a bar in Risør, on the southern coast of Norway. In Norway we celebrate Christmas Eve, so Christmas day I was at work and unsurprisingly not many people were out.

    The cocktail bar was empty and I sat on a stool like a guest. The waiters from the restaurant underneath wandered up and we chatted aimlessly. We realised that is was going to be quiet so we closed early.

    With the doors locked we had the place to ourselves and that is the most beautiful time of the day for a bartender. The ventilation shuts down with a descending whisper and the silence is a bath of spring water.

    We had fallen into the habit of putting wet beer schooners into the freezer where we kept our Aquavit, vodka and bitters. At the end of a shift we would pour a ritual beer into a frosted glass and chase it with an ice cold shot of Jägermeister. On a good night we would repeat the process many times.

    The privilege of sitting with colleagues in your own private bar is a joy. We would tell the same old stories and wind down after a hectic shift. I loved these sessions and dreaded the moment when one sensible spark would slap their thighs and suggest that we call it a night.

    That evening we had watched the news that the Rumanian President and his wife had been summarily tried for their years of wealth and abuse. As soon as they had been convicted they were hurried out into the courtyard and executed by a makeshift firing squad.

    We thought that this was a fitting end for the horrible couple and having not much else to celebrate, we toasted their fate with beer and chasers.

    The night went on and I suddenly felt queasy. The floor rocked and the ceiling spun. I stcrambled to the toilets.

    Inside a booth I stood and threw up. I generally don’t get sick from drinking but this time it snuck up on me.

    My vomit was red, bright red and just liquid. Pints of it, a geyser that didn’t stop. In my stupor, I watched idle curiosity as the lifeblood poured out of me. Was this how I was meant to go? A ruptured gut, a punctured spleen?

    I stopped spewing and seemed to be still breathing. I went to the basin and rinsed my face, dried it. I went back to the party.

    “Are you alright?” they asked. I sat down and explained what had just happened.

    “What were you drinking?” asked the waitress.

    “Just the usual, beer and Jäger”.

    “Ah, that’s OK then.”

    “What do you mean, ‘that’s OK?’ “

    “Jägermeister is black in the glass and red on the way up.”

    So that is what I learned the night Ceausescu was shot, that Jägermister is black in the glass and red on the way up.

  • Bone Ships

    Feb 6th, 2025

    I was seventeen, living in Richmond, Surrey, and my home life was very strained. I was working weekends as a dishwasher and I had three extra jobs cleaning offices and a supermarket in the early mornings and evenings on the weekdays. I was nominally attending college, but cutting most of my classes and I could see that I was not going to pass anything.

    I didn’t like going home and spent as many nights as possible away. But I had nowhere to stay so this involved cadging a sofa or floor here and there with close and not-so-close friends. I am sure I strained many a relationship and it was very uncomfortable for me as well, relying on the charity of half-strangers.

    I had one friend who lived with his family in a cavernous, yet very spacious flat high up on Richmond Hill. I am sure such a place would be well beyond the reach of most people today, but they must have lucked into it at time when the world was less capitalistic.

    The flat was warm, badly painted and messy in the most sympathetic way. I think there were three or four children of various ages, all with thick, spiky hair, a raggedly beautiful mother and a father who spent most of his time at home. It was obvious that they were broke. But they were generous with their food and company.

    I didn’t spend too much time there, I sensed that I would wear out my welcome quickly, despite their kindness. I slept on the sofa in their kitchen a few times.

    I remember waking up one Sunday morning, before the rest of the household. The heat of the night’s sleep enveloped me and I was cosy. I listened to the heartbeat of the walls and knew that soon the family would awaken and share toast, marmalade and hot cups of milky tea. It was bliss tinged with envy for something I might never have.

    Their middle son, my friend, showed me one day the source of their income. He took me down to small, cupboard-like workshop. On a workbench stood a wooden hull, a model ship, a small band-saw and a pile of boiled bones. He explained that his father built these ships to look like the prisoner work of captive French sailors who were incarcerated on British hulks during the Napoleonic War. They used the scraps of their rations and scavenged pieces of wood to fashion souvenirs that they sold to the locals to get money for food.

    I marveled at the intricacy of his fathers work. The thin planking of bone strips, fixed to the hull with tiny pins, the miniature masts and spars planed and sanded and dipped in tea for aging. It didn’t seem dishonest or wrong to me. I have since seen these models in the showrooms of antique dealers, where they fetch very high prices and my heart jumps with pleasure to know that they kept a good family alive, two centuries later.

  • Remembrance Day

    Feb 6th, 2025

    I was 17 and working as a dishwasher in Richmond, Surrey, London. I was paid ten pounds a night, cash in hand and I worked the weekends. For me it was a fortune. I had just broken out from a horrible childhood, left at 16 and was very focused on being 100% independent from then on.

    Down by the Thames riverside, just by Richmond Bridge, was a concert locale. Playing that night was the band “Doll By Doll”. I didn’t know of them, but had a vague impression that they were worth seeing. They played in a darkened hall and there were about a couple hundred in the audience. I hadn’t heard their music before and it was different, strange, loud, sad. I drank a couple of pints or so and became immediately inebriated, being a cheap drunk at the time.

    The band ended their concert by descending into a sonic nightmare of echoing and repeating guitars, seemingly without structure. It was very trippy and went on for a long time. The lead guitar was so choppy that I felt as if helicopters were flying over my head. The lights were strobing and the air was full of smoke and colours.

    Eventually they finished and I went outside into the cold, embankment night, drunker still. Next to the hall I spied a column with two stone soldiers on each side, guarding it. On the plinth below were inscribed the names of the war dead. On the ground in front lay many wreaths of red paper poppies.

    I had been a Cub and Boy Scout for many years, forced to attend twice weekly. I had so many badges my shirt sleeves had room for no more. I didn’t enjoy the Scouts but had no choice but turn up to all their different events. This included church services, especially in the season approaching Remembrance Sunday.

    I would stand in the nave in my uniform holding a Union Jack flag and someone would play Last Post on a bugle and the priest would talk of the Glorious Dead and “lest we forget”. Having grown up on Irish rebel songs I never understood the English fascination for glorifying war and I felt that the pageantry surrounding Remembrance services did more to recruit cannon fodder than honour the departed.

    This may have been an unfair interpretation, but I never heard anyone condemning war mongers from any pulpit, just a constant justification for a terrible tragedy.

    Spying the poppy wreaths and being drunk out of my mind, I was seized with an awful vindictiveness and I walked forward and started kicking at them. They spun and rolled across the dirty, wet ground in all directions.

    A group of passersby spotted me and started shouting. “Can you see that?” “How disgusting!”. I sobered up rapidly and realised what a stupid and dangerous position I was in. I can’t remember if I felt any shame, although I should have, but I remember knowing that for any onlooker I was doing the most shameful thing possible.

    I took to my heels and ran into the misty dark, not looking back.

  • The Explosive German

    Jan 25th, 2025

    It was 1981. John Lennon had just been shot and killed and I was in Miami, listening to The Beatles all day long. I had a cassette player with a copy of The White Album which I played to death. “Happiness is a Warm Gun” indeed. The radio stations were playing Beatles back-to-back and even though I thought I was their biggest fan in the world, there were a couple of songs I hadn’t heard before.

    It was my first time in America and I was staying in a small, green enclave called Coconut Grove. Lots of lush tropical leaves and wooden houses with fans in the ceiling.

    I was broke, arriving on a one way ticket and no work permit. I’m not sure why they let me in, but I scraped through. The customs man tipped the contents of my one bag onto the floor and poked through my belongings with his boot. I had heard that packing a Bible could improve your chances and it might have worked. As soon as I got out of the airport I tore the visa out of my passport.

    I got work as a busboy and graduated to waiting. I was pretty bad, but I made good tips, possibly out of sympathy. At the end of an evening I would have a pile of grubby green notes in my hand and no taxes to pay.

    My unstable friend Gavin arrived from London and he stayed with a neighbour. He was broke too but I had enough to tide us both through.

    One day we were introduced to some friends of our hosts. They probably wanted us out of the house.

    We walked over to the address we had been given and it was a one-storey bungalow, open plan, with a bar in the kitchen. Behind it sat a man in his late thirties. His wife was out and it was the middle of the day.

    We sat down on the stools opposite him and started talking. We explained a bit about ourselves and how we were musicians and had plans. The man was German and poured us sodas.

    I jabbered away and started to ask about him, his life, his work. He was a photographer. I wondered a little bit abut why he was home in the daytime, but not out loud. He talked about things he had done.

    At one point I asked if he didn’t miss doing the things he said he had done?

    He went very still and looked at me. Then he swept all the glasses on the counter top at me, drenching me in sticky soda and broken glass.

    After that there was not much to do but leave. He didn’t apologise and I didn’t either, not knowing which button I had pushed.

    I asked Gavin: “What was that all about?”

    “I could see he was getting wound up, I could see it coming. You were getting to him.”

    “But what did I say that was wrong?”

    “I don’t know.”

    “Germans are crazy”

    “Yes.”

  • Because you’re a man.

    Jan 25th, 2025

    Early January 2025, I flew out of Nice, over the Alpes Maritimes on my way to Oslo. The plane was pretty full and I had a seat in the last row, by the toilets. I asked the stewardess if the plane was full, hoping to move to a better position, but it was pretty packed, so I sat down next to the window. At least I had the row to myself. The row in front of me was full and at the end sat a person who spoke good English with a slight Spanish accent. He was chatting to the guy in the middle who responded in English with a very heavy Norwegian accent.

    A woman sat down in the opposite back row, also on her own. At the very last minute a man sat down in my row, at the end. I looked at my ticket and realised that I should be sitting where the woman was. But now boarding was complete and no one seemed to mind. We all had space.

    The plane took off and after not too long the Captain came on the speaker and warned that we would be experiencing some turbulence ahead. I wasn’t too concerned, there is often some bumpiness where the ocean wind meets the mountains.

    But this time was different. The plane started shaking harder than I have ever experienced before. Being back at the tail didn’t improve things, we were flung about like a paddle ball. And it didn’t stop. I grabbed on to the seat in front of me and tried to control my breathing. I attempted some rudimentary meditation, but the motion was too disturbing to concentrate. However, I was in my little cocoon, doing my best to ignore the awful agitation and coupling out thoughts of death as best I could.

    Out of my right eye I noticed that the man next to me had moved next to the woman in the other back row. She was crying, very panicky, her body wracked with small spasms. He sat down next to her, put his arm on her shoulder and started talking calmly. He kept on talking, reassuring and distracting her. I felt an immense admiration for his effort and his humanity. And a stab of embarrassment. I should have done the same, if it had occurred to me. But he was between us and closer by far, so naturally it fell to him to comfort her. Yet still, would I have done the same? I’d like to think so, but you never know.

    After an age the plane calmed down. The stewardesses unstrapped themselves and wrangled the drinks cart out into the passageway. As we were closest we got to order first. I asked for two gin and tonics. The man next to me had retaken his seat. He had an aura of kindness about him, a selflessness.

    Suddenly a small bottle of red wine appeared on his tray. I hadn’t heard him ordering, so I assumed it was the stewardesses, treating him for being so nice to the scared woman. He looked up, surprised. “What is this for?”

    The Spanish guy in the seat ahead of him turned his head.

    “That’s because you’re a man.”

  • Candles

    Nov 12th, 2024

    Well, was I 14 , 13, somewhere around there? No matter, I got to see my mother every other weekend and that was the only bright point of my childhood. She was married to a new guy, a drinker, as asshole you had to be careful around. Our weekends were pretty similar, always some activities involved, as if we need to be stimulated. Museums and the Commonwealth Centre and such. And as worthy as that sounds, I’m pretty sure my sisters and I would have been just as happy, even more so, I imagine, just lounging on a sofa close to our mum, being the family we weren’t.

    I remember one Sunday we went for a trip along the Thames and there were a host of artists along the embankment trying to sell mediocre paintings and macrame and such.

    I saw one man selling candles, very artisanal, and a woman wanted one that looked very textural, sort of pockmarked all over. The seller agreed and pulled a bog standard candle out of a box and proceeded to hammer at it with a short plank with a square, galvanised nail struck through one end.

    The nail made the required pockmarks and it turned out fine, but it was to my mind watching a magician from behind, seeing the workings and the workings were very cheap. But I remember savouring the apparent disappointment of the buyer who thought they were purchasing a work of art and instead got a candle hammered with a short stick and a nail.

  • A Shot to the Head

    May 4th, 2024

    It was about 20 years ago, I don’t remember. About 2020 or thereabouts. New Year’s Eve. I was on my own as usual, no partner, no nothing. I was invited to a dinner at my sister’s brother-in-law. He worked in some government department and was quite the loudmouth, but likeable. His girlfriend was good looking and feisty.

    They lived in the West End, very bougie, but of course they were above all of that. A corner flat in an impressive block of flats, built in the boom of the 1890’s, lots of cornices, mouldings and terrazzo stairways.

    The dinner was fine, I forget what we ate. We were just those two, my sister and her husband, and me as fifth wheel, the charity case.

    We drank, as Norwegians do, fast and regular, wine and bubbles. We all got well-oiled, but nothing untoward. Midnight approached with the light popping of rockets, some people just can’t wait for the clock to strike.

    At twelve we moved out onto their top floor balcony, a little eagle’s nest cut into the roof. A good six inches of snow on every surface. We toasted each other with Champagne and basked in the falling embers of a million Chinese fireworks.

    The novelty and gunpowder wore off after some minutes and I leaned over the ledge and watched the stragglers on the wide streets making their way home in furs and evening gowns. They irritated me with their carefreelessness, meandering gait and overbearing voices.

    I gathered heavy snow form the gables around me and packed it into satisfyingly heavy snowballs. I started pelting the revelers on the boulevard below and hit quite a few. They were angry and surprised, shouting loudly and looking around for the culprit. Their anger was surprising and heartfelt. I ducked away and giggled, a child again, excitement in my veins.

    On a neighbouring balcony across the street a party witnessed my misdeeds. They must have been a good 150 meters away but I could tell they weren’t happy. A few of the guys in the group took it upon themselves to vigilantisise and they started making snowballs and chucking them in my direction, shouting all the while.

    There was no chance that they’d hit me, no human could at that range, so I paid them no mind.

    I got more cocky and lobbed more at the civilians down below.

    Suddenly I was hit. A hard ball of snow got me square in the forehead. It couldn’t have been more accurate, right between the eyes, hard and hurtful, an explosion of wetness and cold.

    It sobered me up, of course, but it once and forever taught me that randomness is not random and that somewhere out there there is a projectile with my name upon it, homing in, and it will take me out no matter how secure I might feel. The line of fire is way wider than I could ever have imagined.

  • Harmonics

    Apr 29th, 2024

    I was 17, living in London, broke. Playing drums in a band occasionally, working three jobs, one as a dishwasher (no machine, all by hand) and the others were office-cleaning gigs. I loved the dish-washing as the kitchen crew and waiters were top rate, lovely people. The others jobs were just in-and-out, rearrange the dust a bit and skedaddle.

    I used to hitch-hike a lot and one evening a Volkswagen minibus stopped to pick me and my pal Gavin up. It was evening time, dark and rainy. I sat on the front bench, ever the conversationalist and diplomat, Gavin snoozed in the back. Noticing the guitar case, the driver started talking music, which I gladly joined in with. He told me that the only way to reliably tune a guitar is by using harmonics, the overtones on the fifth and other frets.

    These days I use a phone or box to tune up, but I still double check with the harmonics after all these years.

    I asked the driver where he was going and he replied that he was on the way to visit his wife’s grave.

    Being young and lacking most social graces I didn’t know what to reply. He put me at my ease and told me that he had planted Marijuana plants by her headstone and it grew very well there.

    He seemed melancholy, unsurprisingly, and eventually he dropped us off where we wanted to go. He drove off into the dark and rain and I often think of him, sitting on his wife’s grave, smoking a joint and extending her memory.

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